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Torch-On Membrane Roof Installation Steps, from Primer to Flood Test

Updated: 7 min readBy the Azl technical teamMembrane (roll) waterproofing

Technicians laying and sealing roll membrane waterproofing on a concrete building roof
Technicians laying and sealing roll membrane waterproofing on a concrete building roof — Illustrative image

A bituminous membrane rarely fails because the roll itself is poor. It fails because one step was rushed: primer over a dusty slab, a lap welded in a hurry, or an upstand that was not carried high enough. This guide lays out the work in the order a disciplined site follows, and it points out what you should watch for as the owner.

What must be ready before the first roll is unrolled?

The work starts days before the rolls arrive. Sika's application guide for torch-on membranes requires a sound, smooth substrate free of sharp protrusions, clean, dry, and free of oil, dust and loose particles. For new concrete, the guide gives a curing period of 8 days to 3 weeks before application.

Roof readiness checklist

  • Falls to the drains are correct and there is no ponding after a test hose-down.
  • Mortar leftovers, nails and any sharp protrusions that could puncture the sheet are removed.
  • Cracks and honeycombing in the concrete are repaired before waterproofing, not after.
  • Angled fillets (cants) are formed where the slab meets walls and parapets.
  • AC pipes, drainage pipes and equipment bases are fixed in place before the membrane goes down.
  • The surface is confirmed dry, especially on humid coastal mornings.

Printable checklist — use your browser's print command.

The torch-on membrane installation steps in detail

  1. 1

    Final surface cleaning

    Sweep and vacuum the dust immediately before priming. A thin film of dust is enough to weaken adhesion.

  2. 2

    Apply the bituminous primer

    Apply it at the rate in the product data sheet for your substrate and let it dry before welding, as Sika's guide states. Wet primer is flammable and weakens the bond.

  3. 3

    Set out the roll direction

    Unroll the sheets dry first to fix their alignment. Start at the lowest point, at the drains, and work uphill so that water runs over the laps rather than into them.

  4. 4

    Torch-weld the sheet

    The flame heats the underside of the roll and the substrate together until the bottom film begins to melt, then the roll is unrolled and pressed down. The guide warns against overheating because the polyester reinforcement melts at about 260 °C.

  5. 5

    Set the laps

    Follow the lap width in the data sheet. For example, the SikaShield P34 S data sheet gives 100 mm for side laps and 150 mm for end laps. A bead of melted bitumen about 1 cm wide should appear along the whole seam.

  6. 6

    Stagger the end joints

    End joints in neighbouring rows are offset by at least one metre so that several joints never meet at one point, and the corner of the sheet end is trimmed at 45°.

  7. 7

    Upstands and details

    The sheet is turned up the walls and parapet and fixed at the top edge, while drains and penetrations get extra pieces that are welded in carefully.

  8. 8

    Second layer where specified

    In a two-layer system, the second layer is laid so that it sits over the laps of the first, never directly on top of them, and is fully bonded.

Sika's guide also says not to apply the membrane below 5 °C, or during rain or high humidity. In a Saudi summer it is wise to work in the early morning, because the SikaShield P34 S data sheet sets a maximum application temperature of 40 °C.

Details that are often neglected: drains and pipe penetrations

Most leaks on new roofs start at the details, not in the open field. A drain outlet needs an extra reinforcing piece welded around it before the main layer, and the main sheet is then cut precisely and pressed into the drain throat. AC and plumbing pipes that pass through the slab are wrapped with a collar cut from membrane, lifted up the pipe and sealed at the top. Filling the gap with mastic alone is not enough.

It also helps to agree with the contractor, before work starts, where any new equipment will sit on the roof. Every base that is bolted down after waterproofing means holes in a layer that has just passed its test.

How is the flood test carried out after installation?

The flood test is the moment that exposes workmanship before it disappears under tiles. The ASTM D5957 (external source via the Consumer Safety Center) guide describes flooding the waterproofed area to a depth of at least 1 inch (about 25 mm) at the lowest point and no more than 4 inches (about 100 mm), for a period of no less than 24 hours and no more than 72 hours.

  • Drains are plugged with tight temporary stoppers, and the plugs are watched.
  • The ceiling below is checked for damp patches or dripping.
  • The water level on the roof is monitored; a clear drop that evaporation cannot explain signals a leak.
  • The roof is never loaded with more water depth than allowed, because the weight rises with depth.

If a leak appears, the water is drained, the point is located and repaired, and the test is repeated. Do not accept covering the roof before the test passes. If you need to trace an existing leak on an older roof, a leak detection survey is more reliable than guessing.

What happens after the test passes?

Smooth or sanded rolls are not left exposed. The SikaShield P34 S data sheet states that it is not suitable for permanent exposure to sunlight and needs a protection layer. So after the test comes a felt or separation layer, then protective screed or thermal insulation, then tiles, depending on the system chosen for your roof insulation.

If the design leaves the membrane exposed, the top layer must be a granule-surfaced product from the start. We explain the differences between roll types in APP vs SBS membranes, and layer thicknesses in the membrane thickness guide.

What should the owner watch during the work?

Quick site checks for a homeowner
StageWhat you should seeWarning sign
PrimerEven dark colour over the whole slabGrey patches the primer missed
WeldingA bead of melted bitumen squeezing out of the seamEdges you can lift with a finger
LapsConstant width and staggered end jointsFour joints meeting at one point
UpstandsSheet turned up the wall and fixed at the topSheet that stops at the roof corner
Flood testWater held for the agreed periodRoof covered before the test ends

If you want disciplined execution with a documented flood test, Azl provides membrane insulation from surface inspection through to handover after the test.

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take to install a membrane on a villa roof?

It depends on the area, the condition of the slab, the number of layers and the details. Preparation and primer drying can take a day, welding a day or more, and the flood test adds 24 to 72 hours according to ASTM D5957. It is normal for the work to stretch over several days before the protection layer goes on.

Can the membrane be installed over old tiles?

This is usually not recommended. Old tiles can hide moisture, voids or wrong falls, and the membrane needs a sound, clean, dry substrate. The usual solution is to remove the tiles and their layers down to the concrete, or at least to test sample areas before deciding on any approach.

What is the correct lap width between rolls?

The manufacturer sets it for each product. The SikaShield P34 S data sheet states 100 mm for side laps and 150 mm for end laps, and other rolls list 80 to 100 mm for side laps. What matters is following the number in your product's data sheet and seeing a melted bitumen bead along the seam.

Can it be installed at midday in summer?

It is not advisable. Some data sheets set a maximum application temperature, such as 40 °C for SikaShield P34 S, and midday roof surface temperatures exceed that in many Saudi cities. Working in the morning gives better welds and safer conditions for the technicians.

Is a flood test necessary if the installer is experienced?

Yes. The test does not question the installer. It reveals a pinhole or a weak seam before it is buried under tiles. Repairing a defect before covering is far cheaper than lifting tiles later to search for the source of a leak.

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Topic: Torch-On Membrane Roof Installation Steps, from Primer to Flood Test

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References and sources

  1. Application Guide: Bituminous Torch-on Membranes — Sika South Africa · zaf.sika.com
  2. ASTM D5957 Flood Testing Horizontal Waterproofing Installations — Intertek · intertek.com
  3. SikaShield P34 S 4 mm Product Data Sheet — Sika Egypt · egy.sika.com

External links pass through Azl's Consumer Safety Center for checking before leading to other organisations' websites. Citing them does not imply they endorse Azl. Technical values are typical and vary by product; the final reference is the approved product's datasheet and the project design. Editorial policy